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Technical Details
- 20° Face Hook for easy feed- DOUBLE HARD and 40% STRONGER C-4 CARBIDE will give up to 300% longer life between sharpenings.
- Ends second-step finishing (jointing and sanding not required).
- Buy and sharpen ONE blade instead of 3, (24T Rip, 50T Combination, 80T Crosscut).
- Ends cutting 1/16" oversize to allow for RESURFACING
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By D. Clarkson (Concord, NE United States)
I have only cut a few pieces so far with this blade in my table saw so I can't tell yet how long it will stay sharp but so far its flawless. I cut 3/4" melamine coated particle board with absolutely no chipping.
By D. Trelford (Scottsdale, Arizona)
Crosscuts in Pine with no splintering. Crosscuts in Oak with no splintering. Simply the best.
By A. Smith (Camas, WA)
I've used this blade on a big kitchen's worth of pre-finished maple ply (~31 cabinet boxes)plus backs, plus drawer bottoms - plus a handful of melamine projects before. Both rip and crosscuts are clean with almost no tear out on the bottom. I've used panel saws with a scoring blade and this does about 95% as good a cut. Unless you're ready to spring for an Altendorf, this is the way to go.
It's also worth pointing out the less obvious moral to the story here: while there are some good general purpose blades (I also have a couple of Forrest Woodworker II blades - I like 'em) any time you use a general purpose blade you're making a compromise. When I built my workbench I bought a specific ripping blade - a Freud Glue Line - to rip a heck of a lot of 2" maple. The overall performance - speed of cut, lack of saw marks - was just better than the Woodworker II. While there are times when a general purpose blade is the way to go, if you're doing a bunch of similar cuts, you'll be much happier if you spring for a little more cash and blade changing time and use a purpose desinged blade.
By James G. Jones
I am making my own kitchen cabinets with Red Oak and ¾ inch prefinished birch plywood. After many frustrating attempts to rip and cross cut the prefinished plywood with other manufactures blades without any lifting and splintering, I decided to try a Forrest Duraline HI-AT 10" 80 tooth blade. I have a Jet 10-inch 3hp cabinet saw and rechecked all table to blade dimensions, splitter and fence settings to the new blade, no adjustment were needed.
Wow, what a blade. Sharp, smooth, quiet no drag, no vibration (my zero clearance doesn't walk at all) and NO lifting or splinters of the prefinished layer of the birch plywood. What a difference this blade has made in the results and woodworking pleasure. All 90 and less than 90 degree cross & rip cuts are smooth without sign of burn or vibration.
Forrest also engraves a serial number in the blade with a lifetime satisfaction warranty. Full instructions on care and sharpening. I have NEVER experienced this kind of detail from any blade manufacture. I will stick with Amana and Freud for Router bits and cutters but I will be purchasing Forrest blades from now on.
Jim,
Rochester, N.Y.
By D. Ryan (Bay Area, CA)
What a great blade! Doesn't chip melamine or ply, blade stays true over hundreds of cuts. But that's why I buy Forrest blades!
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Buy Forrest DH10807125 Duraline 10-Inch 80 Tooth HI-A/T Melamine and Plywood Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor Now
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